Fish so fresh it’s nearly breathing, endless bowls of noodles in bone broth, topped with spring onions and bamboo shoots; raw mackerel blowtorched at our table to a delicious crisp; grapefruits heavy with heady scent; sweet and thick plum wine and crystal-clear sake served in tiny cups. Salty barbequed chicken skin; pink fish eggs that burst into the tongue; light green tea served cold to ease the humidity; thin strips of bright white daikon; soft green avocadoes; little pearls of white rice waiting patiently for accompanying array of sauces, pickles and dressings.